North Indian avian spectacle – Ohkla Bird
Sanctuary (Uttar Pradesh), Keoladeo National Park (Rajasthan),
Corbett National Park and Nainital (Uttarakhand).
The 15 day birding tour takes you from the bird-filled
wetlands of Keoladeo National Park at Bharatpur to the
dense Sal (Shorea robusta) forests and grasslands
of Corbett Tiger Reserve and further north to the hill
station of Nainital. It is possible to see more than 350
species in addition to various mammals, reptiles and butterflies.
For someone interested in the Indian history there is a
visit to the majestic Taj Mahal at Agra during the first
leg of the journey.
Suitable time: Mid November to late March.
Ohkla Bird Sanctuary
Okhla Bird Sanctuary is situated on the outskirts of Delhi
on the river Yamuna. This is one of the easiest place in
Northern India to see some of the specialities like White-tailed
Stonechat, Striated Grassbird, Striated Babbler, Yellow-bellied
and Graceful Prinias and Small Indian Mongoose.
Keoladeo National Park, Bharatpur
Popularly known as Bharatpur, after the name of the next-door
town, Keoladeo National Park is situated in the colourful
state of Rajasthan. More than 350 bird species have been
recorded here. We will take a full day excursion to Bund
Baratha during our 4 night stay at Bharatpur. One can expect
to see specialities like Bar-headed Goose, Indian Spotbill
Duck, Dusky Eagle Owl, Brown Hawk Owl, Large-tailed Nightjar,
Indian Courser, Blue Bull and Indian Rock Python.
Corbett National Park
Situated in the foothills of the Himalayas, Corbett National
Park is another major birding location. Created in 1936
as the first wildlife park of India, Corbett has a bird
tally of more than 500 species. The area attracts large
number of sub-Himalayan species in the winters in addition
to an equally large number of long-distance migrants. We
will stay two nights each at Kumerian on the outskirts
of the reserve and at Dhikala situated in the heart of
Corbett National Park. We can expect to see specialities
like Kalij Pheasant, Great Hornbill, Tawny Fish Owl, Ibisbill,
Pallas’s and Lesser Fish Eagles, Pied Harrier, Collared
Falconet, Spotted Forktail, Wallcreeper, Nepal Wren Babbler,
Tiger, Asian Elephant and Gharial.
Nainital
The hill station of Nainital situated close to Corbett
Tiger Reserve, but on a higher elevation, is an ideal spot
for a birder looking for the Himalayan and sub-Himalayan
species which come down to moderate elevations in the winters.
More than 200 species have been reported from the area.
We will be looking for specialities like Koklass and Cheer
Pheasants, Scaly-bellied Woodpecker, Lammergeier, Long-billed
Thrush, Golden Bush Robin, Rufous-chinned Laughingthrush,
Yellow-breasted Greenfinch, Goral and Yellow-throated Martin.
Day 1: Delhi, Okhla Bird Sanctuary and Bharatpur
It is an experience for someone travelling to India for
the first time to be driven through the busy streets of
Indian cities. Pace of life is slow and one can watch various
articles being sold in the local markets ranging from different
vegetables and fruits in the subji markets, an
integral part of any Indian town, to the large variety
of sweets at the sweet vendor shop and the colourful glass
bangles, a must for Indian women.
We spend our first morning birding at Okhla Bird Sanctuary
situated on the river Yamuna. Specialities of the place
are two endemic species, Striated Babbler and White-tailed
Stonechat and are rather easy to find here. Other species
of interest are Striated Grassbird, Moustached Warbler,
four species of prinias including, Yellow-bellied, Graceful,
Plain and Ashy Prinias, Oriental Skylark, Small Minivet
and Red Avadavat. A rarity for the Indian subcontinent,
White-crowned Penduline Tit has been recorded from this
site.The visit to Okhla is an opportunity to quickly observe
species which are going to form core of your birding experience
at Bharatpur and Bund Baratha for the next four days. These
include various waterfowl, shorebirds, gulls, terns and
raptors.
The five hours drive from Delhi to Bharatpur gives you
the opportunity to observe the beautiful Indian landscape.
Birds you can spot from your coach may include Common Kingfisher,
Rose-ringed Parakeet, Rock Pigeon, Eurasian Collared Dove,
White-breasted Waterhen, Common Sandpiper, Black-winged
Stilt, Red-wattled Lapwing, Black-shouldered Kite, Cattle
Egret, Indian Pond Heron, Common Myna, Red-vented Bulbul,
Jungle Babbler and Grey Wagtail.
Night stay at a comfortable lodge at Bharatpur.
Day 2-5: Keoladeo National Park, Bharatpur
Keoladeo National Park is better known to the world as
Bharatpur, named after the next-door town. Once the shooting
reserve of the Maharaja, the area is fed by water from
the nearby river and the artificially created wetland is
arguably the best birding site in Asia. It has an area
of approximately 28 square km. and apart from the wetlands
there are patches of grassland, woodland and acacia scrub.
Mode of transport inside the park is cycle rickshaw but
frequently one has to walk on to the trails where the rickshaws
can not go.
We will make trips to different parts of the park on each
successive day and our four-night stay is likely to produce
a bird tally of 150-200 bird species.
Bharatpur is a major nesting area for thousands of Egrets,
Painted Storks, Open-billed Storks, Cormorants, Darters,
Ibises and Spoonbills in the rainy season. By the time
it is winter it is possible to see immature of all these
species. Many species of Ducks and Geese can be seen at
Bharatpur including Bar-headed Goose, Ruddy Shelduck, Comb
Duck, Cotton Pygmy-Goose, Spot-billed Duck, Red crested
and Ferruginous Pochards. Bharatpur attracts lots of raptors
in winters including Egyptian, White-rumped, Indian and
Red-headed Vultures. Eurasian Marsh Harrier, Shikra, Indian
Spotted, Geater Spotted, Tawny, Steppe, Imperial, Bonelli’s
and Booted Eagles, Common Kestrel and Peregrine Falcon.
The waders we can come across include Black-tailed Godwit,
Eurasian Curlew, Spotted Redshank, Wood Sandpiper, Little
and Temminck’s Stints, Ruff, Little Ringed and Kentish
Plovers, White-tailed Lapwing and if we are lucky the elusive
Sociable Lapwing. The world’s tallest flying bird Sarus
Crane can be seen in the reserve. Indian Coursers have
been recorded from the reserve regularly during last few
years.
A day visit to Bund Baratha, a man made lake can be very
productive and one can expect River Terns, Indian Skimmers,
Great Thick-knee, Brown Crake and Sulphur-bellied Warbler.
Some of the other birds to be seen at Bharatpur are Brown-capped
Pygmy Woodpecker, Pied Kingfisher, Little Swift, Indian
Scops and Dusky Eagle Owls, Grey and Indian Nightjars,
Yellow-footed Green Pigeon, Purple Swamphen, Common Coot,
Pheasant-tailed and Bronze-winged Jacanas, Whiskered Tern,
Black-crowned Night Heron, Black Bittern, Great White Pelican,
Bay-backed Shrike, White-bellied Drongo, Orange-headed
and Tickell’s Thrushes, Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher, Siberian
Rubythroat, Desert Wheatear, Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch,
Streak-throated Swallow, Blyth’s and Clamorous Reed Warblers,
Yellow-eyed Babbler, Lesser Whitethroat, Rufous-tailed
and Crested Larks, Thick-billed Flowerpecker, Citrine Wagtail,
Paddyfield and Tawny Pipits, Red Avadavat, Black-headed
and Red-headed Buntings.
Apart from the birds one can see at Bharatpur other forms
of life in the park as well. Northern Palm Squirrels convey
their presence by making bird-like calls, as they run around
from one branch of the tree to another. Blue Bull, locally
known as Neel Gai, is the largest Indian antelope. It prefers
the small islands with Acacia trees in the wetland. Sambar,
the largest Indian deer shares the same habitat with the
Blue Bull. Herds of Spotted Deer prefer the dry woodland
areas. Golden Jackal, Wild Boar, Grey and Small Indian
Mongoose are the other mammals. Bharatpur is one of the
easiest places to see the Indian Rock Python. There are
areas where these 4-5 meter long reptiles can bee seen
basking in the sun.
Night stay at a comfortable lodge at Bharatpur.
Day 6: Agra and Fatehpur Sikri
After leaving Bharatpur we drive to the fort of Fatehpur
Sikri, once the capital of the mighty Mogul empire. Apart
from the usual Dusky Crag Martins and Brown Rock Chats,
Wallcreepers have been reported from this place. The omnipresent
flocks of soaring Black Kites may also have a few Long-billed
Vultures.
After Fatehpur Sikri we drive to Agra and visit Taj Mahal,
a monument built by the Mogul emperor Shah Jahan, was made
in the memory of his beloved wife Mumtaz. For someone not
interested in the events of the distant past, the river
Yamuna, flowing behind Taj can produce Ruddy Shelduck,
Pied Avocet, Marsh Sandpiper, Common Greenshank, River
Lapwing, Common Redshank, Brown-headed Gull, River and
Black-bellied Terns. In the spacious lawns of Taj Mahal
you may find Brown-headed Barbet, Coppersmith, Indian Grey
Hornbill, Common Hoopoe, Indian Roller, Spotted Owlet,
Laughing Dove and Long-tailed Shrike. There has been a
pair of Dusky Eagle owls nesting in a giant Silk Cotton
tree here. The sky above may have an occasional Laggar
Falcon, Booted Eagle or a Eurasian Sparrowhawk.
In the evening we catch a train to Lal Kuan, located 80
km from Corbett National Park in the Himalayan foothills.
The overnight journey is in the air-conditioned sleeper
coach.
Night in air-conditioned sleeper class train.
Day 7 and 8: Kumerian
We arrive at Lal Kuan in the morning and get transferred
to Corbett. Driving via Ramnagar, a small town situated
on the western bank of the River Kosi is the gateway to
the Corbett country, the drive to Kumerian takes about
three hours. Kumerian Reserve Forest is situated 30 km
north of Ramnagar.
A birding tour to Corbett is incomplete without a halt
at Kumerian. Birding in the Kosi riverbed and the nearby
streams can be very exciting as there are possibilities
of finding Common Merganser, Speckled Piculet, Lesser and
Greater Yellownapes, Streak-throated Woodpecker, Himalayan
Flameback, Great and Lineated Barbets, Oriental Pied Hornbill,
Crested Kingfisher, Slaty-headed Parakeet, Tawny Fish Owl,
Brown Hawk Owl, Pallas’s Fish Eagle, Crested Serpent Eagle,
Mountain Hawk Eagle, Golden-fronted and Orange-bellied
Leafbirds, Red-billed Blue Magpie, Grey Treepie, Black-hooded
Oriole, Small Minivet, Spangled Drongo, Large Woodshrike,
Blue Whistling Thrush, Grey-winged Blackbird, Slaty-backed,
Rufous-gorgeted, Snowy-browed and Slaty Blue Flycatchers,
Rufous-bellied Niltava, Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher,
Little and Spotted Forktails, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch,
Black Bulbul, Grey-breasted Prinia, Tickell’s Leaf, Hume’s,
Greenish and Whistler’s Warblers, White-throated and White-crested
Laughingthrushes, Black-chinned Babbler, Blue-winged Minla,
White-Bellied Yuhina and Green-tailed Sunbird. Some of
the very special birds to look for in this area are Ibisbill,
Great Thick-knee, Brown Dipper, Slaty-backed Forktail,
Wallcreeper and Black-throated Sunbird.
Night stay at a comfortable lodge at Corbett.
Day 9 and 10: Dhikala, Corbett National Park
After checking up the birds on the periphery of Corbett
National Park for two days, you are transferred to Dhikala
Forest Rest House situated in the heart of the park. Dhikala
is situated on the bank of the River Ramganga and the river
bed is more than a mile broad. The adjoining grasslands
attracting herds of Elephants, Spotted Deer and Hog Deer
surround the resthouse. Among the main mammals species
to be seen around Dhikala are Tiger, Leopard, Jungle Cat,
Indian Elephant, Wild Boar, Rhesus Macaque, Hanuman Langur,
Golden Jackal, Sambar, Indian Muntjac, Grey Mongoose and
Small Indian Civet. With some amount of luck it is possible
to spot Smooth Indian and Eurasian Otters in the Ramganga
river. Sightings of Marsh Crocodile and the unusual fish-eating
crocodile also known as Gharial are almost guaranteed.
Major birding attractions at Dhikala are Black Francolin,
Red Junglefowl, Kalij Pheasant, Streak-throated Woodpecker,
Greater Flameback, Great Slaty Woodpecker, Blue-throated
Barbet, Great Hornbill, Stork-billed Kingfisher, Blue-bearded
Bee-eater, Green-billed Malkoha, Lesser Coucal, Red-breasted
Parakeet, Crested Treeswift, Brown Fish Owl, Jungle Owlet,
Large-tailed Nightjar, Emerald Dove, Pin-tailed Green Pigeon,
Ruddy-breasted Crake, Great Thick-knee, Osprey, Lesser
Fish Eagle, Himalayan Griffon, Cinereous Vulture, Short-toed
Snake Eagle, Hen and Pied Harriers, Besra, Rufous-bellied
Eagle, Mountain Hawk Eagle, Collared Falconet, Common Green
Magpie, Large Cuckooshrike, Long-tailed Minivet, Yellow-bellied
Fantail, Verditer Flycatcher, Rufous-bellied and Small
Niltavas, White-tailed Rubythroat, Bar-tailed Treecreeper,
Ashy Bulbul, Bright-headed and Zitting Cisticolas, Aberrant
and Grey-sided Bush Warblers, Smoky and Lemon-rumped Warblers,
Puff-throated Babbler, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-Babbler,
Red-billed Leiothrix, Crimson Sunbird, Long-billed Pipit
and Chestnut-eared Bunting.
Night stay at Forest Rest House, Dhikala, Corbett National
Park.
Day 11: Corbett National Park and Nainital
From Dhikala it is a 5 hour journey to the hill station
of Nainital. On the way we will stop to check up the Kaladhungi
House of Jim Corbett which is now a museum. The drive from
Kaladhungi to Nainital is a steep climb and full of birding
opportunities. Grey Bushchat, Himalayan and Black Bulbuls,
Pale-billed Flowerpecker and Blue-throated Barbet are commonly
seen birds on this route. With some luck we may have our
first sighting of Lammergeier. There can be many Himalayan
Griffon and Steppe Eagles in the sky. We shall reach our
destination by the time it is dark.
Night stay at a comfortable lodge at Nainital.
Day 12-14: Nainital
Different areas around Nainital can be covered in three
days. An hour’s drive to Sat-Tal is an ideal birding trip.
Sat-Tal is a densely wooded area having a group of seven
small lakes. Another day’s birding can be done at Mangoli
Valley. It is a beautiful narrow valley situated at 45
minutes distance from Nainital. The third day can be spent
around the city itself. We can take the cable car and go
to a place called Snow View to check up the mighty Himalayan
peaks. It is one spot to look for the elusive Hill Partridge.
On all these three days we shall have to trek for 4-5 hours
but these are gentle treks without much climbing and we
move on the birding pace.
Some of the birds to be seen around Nainital are Hill
Partridge, Koklass, Kalij and Cheer Pheasants, Brown-fronted
and Himalayan Woodpeckers, Great Barbet, Asian Barred Owlet,
Oriental Turtle Dove, Black Eagle, Himalayan Buzzard, Eurasian
and Black-headed Jays, Short-billed Minivet, Chestnut-bellied
Rock Thrush, Long-billed Thrush, Grey-winged Blackbird,
Slaty Blue Flycatcher, Siberian Rubythroat, Orange-flanked
and Golden Bush Robins, Blue-throated Redstart, White-tailed
Nuthatch, Spot-winged, Green-backed and Black-lored Tits,
Mountain Bulbul, Striated Prinia, Chestnut-headed Tesia,
Buff-barred and Ashy-throated Warblers, Striated, Roufous-chinned
and Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrushes, Black-chinned Babbler,
Red-billed Leiothrix, Blue-winged Minla, Rufous Sibia,
Fire-breasted Flowerpecker, Mrs. Gould’s Sunbird, Russet
Sparrow, Olive-backed Pipit, Altai, Rufous-breasted and
Black-throated Accentors, Fire-fronted Serin, Yellow-breasted
Greenfinch, Pink-browed Rosefinch, Black-and-yellow Grosbeak
and Rock Bunting.
Night stay at a comfortable lodge at Nainital.
Day 15: Nainital and New Delhi
One has to drive for eight hours through the north Indian
landscape to reach New Delhi. The drive, though long, is
not uninteresting as it gives you another opportunity to
observe the rural India. Apart from the usual traffic of
buses, trucks and cars, one can also see the conventional
modes of transport on the highway. Carts being pulled by
buffaloes, oxen, horses and camels are common. As you move
through the land you observe various styles of local Indian
attire. The colourful cloths of the women seen earlier
during the trip in Rajasthan are replaced by sober shades
as you drive through the state of Uttar Pradesh.
Apart from the usual roadside birds you observe from your
coach, a stop at the holy river Ganges, at Garh Mukteshwar
is very rewarding. Among the various species to be seen
are Ruddy Shelduck, Indian Cormorant, Pallas’s Gull, Black-bellied
Tern, Indian Skimmer, White-tailed Stonechat, Common Babbler,
Sand Lark, and Indian Silverbill. The river is also home
to the rare River Dolphin. Spotting one or two of these
aquatic mammals can be a thrilling experience.
Accommodation
Comfortable wildlife lodges are used at Bharatpur and
Corbett. At Dhikala, we will stay at forest rest house
complex. Although accommodation is somewhat basic, attached
toilet with running hot and cold water is available. Staying
at Dhikala has its advantages as the area offers best of
the wildlife experience in the subcontinent. At Nainital
will use comfortable tourist lodge.
Transport
Transport used on the tour will be car or mini coach.
At Bharatpur, we will be using rickshaws in some areas.
Most of the birding in Bharatpur is on foot but the walks
are easy. At Corbett we will take comfortable walks on
the periphery of the park and use 4 x 4 jeeps for transfers
and game-drives. At Nainital we will use car or mini coach
and take comfortable walks.
Climate
Delhi and Bharatpur will be cold during mornings and evenings,
warm during the day and there can occasionally be overcast
days that are colder than normal. Rain is unlikely but
possible. Corbett and Nainital can be cold to very cold
with temperatures going close to zero degree celsius in
Nainital.
Photography
There are good chances of photography as we shall be visiting
fairly open habitats, most of the time with good light
conditions.
Extensions
There can be various extensions to this itinerary. One
can choose to do the central India tour visiting some of
the best Tiger Reserves like Kanha and Bandhavgarh.
An extension to Ranthambhor Tiger Reserve in
Rajasthan and Chambal Wildlife Sanctuary near
Agra is also possible.
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